Suomenlinna is a tourist-turned naval fortress constructed over eight islands which attracts approximately 700,000 travellers every year and is the centre of some of Finland’s richest historical episodes. It is only one of seven World Heritage -listed sites in Finland and has over 290 buildings across the site which includes nine restaurants, six museums, a naval academy, a church and a brewery that doubles as a pub (thank God).
Most of the islands’ buildings date back to the 1700s of the time of Swedish rule in Finland. The walls and tunnels constructed on Suomenlinna are of a bygone era where cobblestones were the rage in most of Europe. Yet all these military features merely add to the experience of what life may’ve been like on Suomenlinna some 250 years ago.
The island has a permanent population of over 800 people now and is actually considered as an active suburb of Helsinki providing somewhere between 400-500 jobs on the eight islands. Suomenlinna’s dimensions are impressive too: the island stronghold was built over 80 hectares of land with its walls stretching to a six-kilometre circumference around the many bastions that safeguard the fortification in its entirety.
Suomenlinna has rightly kept much of its history with over 100 mounted guns and cannons littered around the maritime fortress, while the island still boasts its shipyard, jetty barracks and the great courtyard which holds the grave of Augustin Ehrensvärd: the Swedish military general who was commissioned to design and construct the nautical fortification.
History of Suomenlinna
Originally established by the Swedes in 1748, the island stronghold of Suomenlinna was constructed to protect against potential invasions from the newly founded Russian Empire and to act as a naval headquarters for the Finnish fleet. However, in 1808, the Russians eventually got their hands of Suomenlinna...and the rest of Finland for that matter.
The Russians proceeded to alter the stronghold and immediately began the changes by renaming it Viapori. They continued altering things by transforming Suomenlinna into more of a nautical outpost that provided the Russian city of St Petersburg with a 'you’ll-need-to-get-through-us-first' protection against the Swedes and Finns.
The Finns eventually regained their independence in 1917 before promptly renaming the fortress Suomenlinna and utilising the island for many purposes including the use of the island as a submarine station, housing a seaside artillery brigade and forming a shipyard for assembling and repairing ships. Today the only active military influence that remains on the eight islands is with the Finnish Naval Academy, leaving civil administration to govern Suomenlinna.
Suomenlinna as it Stands Today
Tourist-wise, while the island fortress will satisfy lovers of military and history, there is something for everyone in Suomenlinna. On arrival at this maritime jewel – and, yes, entry is free – it is best to head straight to the visitors’ centre that can direct you to the various sites and museums around the islands. Guided tours, maps and general information are all part of the service at the visitors’ centre making it your one-stop shop in Suomenlinna.
When you’re done with the sight-seeing, the various cafes, restaurants and pubs will have something to satiate your needs. However, a worthy idea to consider would be going down to the general store in Suomenlinna with your very own basket and purchasing some food and drink before embarking on a picnic in a peaceful part of the island – true bliss!
Suomenlinna: Getting There and Back
Getting to Suomenlinna is easy but restrictive. Make your way to the President's castle, situated in the Helsinki district of Kauppatori, then head towards the docks and set sail on one of many Suomenlinna-bound ferries. If you're having trouble finding the docks, just look for the pigeons and their droppings and you really can't go wrong.
The trip only takes about 15-20 minutes and provides tourists with an excellent chance to photograph Helsinki from afar. The frequency of the ferries depends on the season but normally you'll find about 3-4 ferries running each way per hour. Ferries usually run between 9am and 6pm most of the year, yet in the summer ferry service times extend to virtually the whole day and night with 6am - 2am services really not out of the question.
Service boats also allow you to take your car over to Suomenlinna, but this trip takes about an hour and only runs on weekdays. To be honest, whether you’re thinking of taking your car or not, just remember that Suomenlinna is completely walkable even if you’re only planning to go for a half day. It’s no secret that cantering around the island makes for a more time-effective and, simply, a more enjoyable experience of Suomenlinna.